hoistrope2003

HOIST ROPE BREAK IN PROCEDURE

Purpose: The shovel cable wear out with use and need to be changed periodically in order to keep the shovel in good running condition.

Number of Persons Required: 4 minimum

Special Tools or Equipment Required:1 ea. - 1 ½" Wrench,

1 ea. - 12 lb. Hammer

Cutting Torch

Welder and 1/8" rod (7018)

30,000 lb Cat Forklift

Loaded Cable Reeler (Located at the Consignment Yard)

Key to turn Hoist to Bypass (See Electricians or Shovel Crew Leadman)

1 ea. - 20’ Chain or Strap 3’x3’ Channel Iron or 3’ piece of strap

2 ea. - 6’ Chokers

4 ea. - ½" Shackeles

4’ Pry Bar

12’ Ladder

1 ea. - Short 1" Sling

2 ea. - Safety Harness

Two or more Hand Held Radios

References or Manuals: P&H PM Service Manual

Notification: Notify the equipment operator of work to be performed on machine. Also notify the electricians.

Potential Hazards Identified: Being struck by new cables after cutting shipping tie downs. Shovel cables are very heavy, use appropriate equipment and lifting techniques to avoid injury. Whenever personnel are required to work outside of the handrails, a harness and lanyard must be used to prevent falling. Also use care when working around sheaves as they present pinch points that may cause injury.

Required PPE: Standard Safety Equipment: Hard Hat, Safety Glasses & Safety Shoes, Safety Harness

Safe Operating Procedure:

SAFETY CONCERNS

Use hand held radios, on maintenance channel, to communicate with all employees involved with shovel cable change outs.
Please note that you cannot lock-out the shovel during a cable change out, as it must be running to assist in changing the cables.
Make sure everyone is task trained to operate any piece of equipment needed to do this job and that everyone is accounted for throughout the operation.
Never let anyone stand or work under the point sheaves when pulling or releasing the shovel cables.
Before using the tuggers, check the tugger cables for bent or broken strands. Be sure to stand clear of the tuggers and tugger cables as much as possible when they are in operation.
When working on or around the point sheaves, be careful, as they will move or roll very easily.
The shovel ropes are quite heavy so take precautions to stand clear at all times.
If anyone climbs to the point sheaves for any reason, beware of oil and crater grease and wear a safety harness.
If cutting or welding is done inside the shovel house, complete a Hot Work permit. Be sure to cover or protect all the electric motors and brakes. Always have a portable fire extinguisher nearby.
Be sure and always us the proper protective gear. Do not proceed with the job until all safety precautions have been met.

CABLE REMOVAL

First, load all the tools into a service truck and check the welder and oxygen bottles to see that they are full before leaving the shop area. One man needs to take the Cat Forklift to the old consignment yard, pick-up the loaded cable reeler and take it to the shovel in need of new ropes. Three men go to the shovel and if possible position the shovel to give yourselves plenty of room to pull the cables away from the shovel and to set the bucket so the cables are coming straight off the point sheaves to the bucket. In one other scenario, you might have to start cutting the broken cables out of the shovel house with torches.
Next you need to hold the equalizer in place, so use the pinning bar that is on each shovel to do this. If the bar is missing for any reason you will have to weld a heavy piece of iron between the bucket and the equalizer.
Go up to the cab and set the hoist limits into the bypass position. Set the cable reeler out of the way, hook the forklift to the old cables on the shovel and as you start to unwind the cables from the drum on the shovel, pull the cables away from the shovel with the forklift.
This is a good time to ensure that everyone on this job knows the whole plan. Inside the shovel house, start rolling the cable drum to ease the old cables off. When the first set of cable ends come to the top of the drum and there are not wraps left, hook the 6’ chokers to the tuggers and the old shovel cable ends. Undo the lock bolts on the drums and pull with the tuggers until the cable ends are free of their holders. Then rotate the drum 180 degrees letting the tuggers off at the same time. Stop the drum when the next set of cable ends are on the top of the drum and there are no wraps left. Hook the spare shackles to the cables in the drum, undo the locks and again pull the cables out of the housing with the tuggers with the first set of cables still attached. At the end of this process you should have both sets of old cables hooked up to the tuggers at once and be completely free of the drum. You will have to pull (with the forklift) the old cables as you let off with the tuggers. Let the tuggers off until the cables are lying on the ground. Once the cables are all the way off, unhook the tuggers and pull the cables out of the way of the shovel and work area. After the cables have been cleared away from the shovel inspect the equalizer where the cables always lay for cracking!

NEW CABLE INSTALLATION

Pick-up the cable reeler and set it in front of the shovel bucket so the cables come off the back of the reeler towards the shovel. Hook up the tugger cables to the reel; the first set of cables that is closest to the bucket making sure the tugger cables are positioned in sheaves 1 and 3. (See attached drawings)
Next you need to cut the cable shipping tie downs but BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING THE SHIPPING TIE DOWNS ON THE NEW CABLES AS THEY TEND TO BE SPRING LOADED.
Next pull the new cables up and over the point sheaves 1 and 3 and into the house. Hook cable end #3 to the drum in the house and tie off cable end #1 to the dirt chute. One man will then have to drag the empty tugger cables back out of the house, up the boom and over the point sheaves #2 and #4. MAKE SURE THIS MAN IS TIED OFF. Continue letting the tuggers off until they reach the last set of new cables on the cable reeler.
Hook up the tugger cables to the new cable ends. NOTE: (You may have to tie the back or bottom of cables 1 and 3 to the bucket in some way to prevent the point sheaves from turning when you bring cable ends 2 and 4 up over the point sheave.) Again be aware to stand clear when cutting the cable ends free of the spool!! Pull the #2 and #4 cable ends up over the point sheaves and down into the house. Hook #2 cable end to the drum and set both locks on cable ends #2 and #3.
Rotate the drum 180 degrees making sure the cable is in the lagging groves and turning until the next set of empty cable end holders is on the top of the drum. Pull cables #1 and #4 into the holders and set the lock bolts. NOTE: (You may need to seat the cable ends with a hammer to ensure that they are all the way forward in the holder so the lock bolts fit correctly.)
After the locks have been set on the drum for all four cables, then continue to rotate the drum until the cables start to draw up to the equalizer outside. When ready hook up the cables to the equalizer. NOTE: (The cable going over sheaves #1 and #3 go to the back side of the equalizer and the cable going over sheaves #2 and #4 go to the front of the equalizer.) Once the cables are hooked into the equalizer, then install the stops, cut the channel iron off the equalizer and the bucket. While people are gathering up all the tools have one person go up to the cab and turn off the bypass on the hoist limit. Have an electrician check to make sure the hoist limits did not change.

CABLE BREAK IN AND CLEAN-UP

Have an operator hoist the bucket three times empty, three times with a half a bucket load and three times with a full bucket load to help seat, stretch and break in the new cables. NOTE: (This must be done before you release the shovel to the pit department.) Also before releasing the shovel, visually inspect everything to ensure the job is complete. Clean up and haul off trash and the old cables.